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Welcome to tactical

In this Tier of Warspike: Tactical, you will find rules covering massed battles using tactical formations made up of several units which predominately relying on close combat and primitive missile weapons. Once the Tactical Core has been mastered, the rule set can be expanded with modular augments covered in the Tactical Augmented rule set. The Tactical Augmented rule set builds upon this Tactical Core rule set and introduces proper firearms, modern suppression fire tactics, skirmishers, psychology, trauma, shock etc. Each of these augments can be installed individually, and you are free to pick and mix to get the system you need for the era of warfare you are looking for.




Warspike is a table top wargame using toy soldiers and like all table top wargames it takes a little time and preparation to set up. Wargaming is not a quick hobby, so take your time and set aside a slow afternoon (rainy days are good!) when you can enjoy it without distractions. It's a chance to catch up with old friends and have a few beers and shoot the breeze.



The game is between two opposing armies, each army is controlled by a single Player. Each army is represented by miniatures (or cardboard markers) on a field of battle represented by a game table. Simple eh?


Game Area

Once you have an 'opponent' (old mate you wish to humiliate) the first thing you are going to need is a gaming area or table. Any large flat area will do as long as you do not block through ways or annoy your parents (or if adult; your better half). I used to play on the rug in front of the fire on cold winter days, even out in the garden on the old brick path in summer, but most players use a gaming table (or more accurately a rechristened dinning room table, though some hard-core fans have a dedicated 'gaming table' in a garage, games room or den). A snooker (pool or billiard) table also makes are good surface, though I would recommend you throw an old (not your mum's (or miss') favourite) sheet over it, or perhaps a board.


Out of convention, most gamers refer to the gaming area as a 'table top', even if played on the floor. Table top is a term that pops up a lot in this game, and all it really means is the 'gaming area' (you do not have to play on a table, a rug will do!).



The soldiers within your army are represented by little statues, called miniatures. The size of these miniatures is measured in a scale. A scale is where we pretend that one measurement unit represents another in the game. For example, if we use the scale where 1 inch in real measurement pretends to be 2 yards on the game table, then a little miniature 1" high of a human would represent someone 2 yards tall (six feet tall). So if you are six feet tall, a miniature representing of you on the table top at this scale would be a wee statute 1 inch tall.


These scales are usually written in a short hand way using ratio to represent the conversion. For those who do not like math, don't panic as it is much simpler than is sounds: all a ratio of 1:72 means is that one real inch is equal to 72 inches on the table top (72 inches is 6 feet, and also 2 yards). The great thing about using a ratio is that it can apply to any measurement, so using 1:72 can also be used to say that 1 metre (in real world measurement) is equal to 72 metres (on the game table).


I brought some 1:72 scale Green Jackets made by Italeri, they are really small (a little over and inch tall with the feather sticking up from the front of the helm) and being made of plastic are very light compared to the metal miniatures I am used too. In fact they are so light and small that if I had used them when I was young on the rug in front of the fire they would fall over! So when picking a gaming table the type of miniatures you choose should be taken into account when picking a surface. Metal miniatures from companies like Games Workshop are heavy and have a wide plastic base and a great for marauding over rugs, carpet and brick paths (though once you get into painting you may have second thoughts about leaving them all over the floor for someone to wander past and absent mindedly boot your general under the sofa not to be seen again until spring cleaning!).


Table Top Measurements

All measurements on the table top are scaled and it is often easier to give the scaled measurement in a game. So instead of saying a trooper moves 50 yards and then convert to a 1:72 scale on the fly; the table top measurement is given pre-converted instead: so the trooper is said to move 25". However that doesn't means the trooper is moving a mere 25 inches! To stop any confusion a double 'T' is used: 25tt". This means 25 table top inches. Whenever you see 'tt' on a measurement this is a scaled measurement. Please bear in mind that these can be rescaled, and often real world measurements are give side by side: 25tt": 150' (1:72)



One you have a gaming area, and some miniatures you may want a bit of scenery to brighten things up and make it more interesting. Just as you can by miniatures which are little scale models of humans (and aliens and beasties), you can also buy (or make) scale models of buildings, bridges and hills. It is interesting to note that a vast array of scenery is available, a lot via the model railway manufactures. The popular OO gauge used by many British manufactures is 1:76 scale, which is really close to the 1:72 scale of many soldier miniatures (and yes this does mean you can wage war across a model railway layout in all it's glory, of course not as devastating as the time my little sister climbed onto the model railway layout my dad, brother and I were putting the finishing touches too and went berserk in an orgy of destruction Godzilla style. Hard to believe such little feet can destroy mountains. Moral of the story: do not ignore your little sister, she has the power of shiva and will destroy your creation - lucky she cute as a button or she would be in a shallow grave long ago!)


The miniatures and scenery are all set to a scale.



Warspike makes use special ten sided dice (shape: Pentagonal trapezohedron), not the common six sided dice you may be familiar with. Each face on a ten sided die is kite shaped. The ten sided dice can be picked up from most hobby stores for a pittance. In the rules of Warspike these ten sided dice are referred to in a short hand code: D10 (where 'D' is for 'Dice' or 'Die' and '10' for the number of sides of the die). Out of completeness a 'D6' would be a six sided die.


If the rules state that more than one D10 is to be rolled at once, the die code is prefixed with the number of dice to be thrown together: #D10

  • Example: If five D10 are to be thrown all at once, then it is written as '5D10'. If twelve D10 are to be thrown it would be written as '12D10'. Usually a single D10 is written without a number prefix, and is simply put as 'D10', though in confusing situations it will be marked as '1D10'.

Usually a D10 is marked from 0-9, where '0' is counts as a '10'.


Scatter: When grenades, bombs and artillery shells land off-target they will still explode! In these cases a 'miss' means the bomb 'scatters' and this is covered by 'scatter' rule. To work out the direction of scatter look for the 'point' on the D10. If you look at the up facing side on a D10 it is shaped like a kite, or arrow head. The narrow point is the direction. Follow the arrow. The amount of scatter in table top inches in indicated by the result rolled.



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Copyright © Philip Sibbering 2007-2013. WarSpike™ is a Trademark of Philip Sibbering.

This file last modified 06/25/16